You’ll Love This Screen Printing eBook If:
- You love the look of screen printing & want to give it a try
- You’re a screen printing artist looking for new tricks & ideas
- You want to learn how to screen print a variety of objects with just a few basic supplies
Nick Paparone and Jamie Dillon show you everything you need to know about screen printing in this step-by-step eBook. Instantly access page after page of screen printing techniques and tips as well as complete screen printing projects and ideas for turning screen prints to a personal art or even a business. Learn how to screen print almost anything on a small budget. All you need is a screen, some emulsion in a bucket, artwork, a light source and a sink.
Whether you want to make a one-color poster for your bands upcoming show or a three-color screen print for a series of t-shirts, you’ll find great ideas and tricks here. Avoid common mistakes with these expert tips and soon you’ll be screen printing whatever your heart desires. Use your burned screen, a squeegee and some ink in order to print any image or lettering. This convenient PDF format allows you to start learning and creating right away.
In the Print Liberation eBook You’ll Learn:
- How to screen print original art onto boxes, shirts, shopping bags, stickers, CDs, apparel, books, metal and glass
- Basic screen printing techniques for creating one-color and three-color images
- How to turn screen prints to personal or business art
A Word From the Authors:
"We want to give you the ability to screen print however you can, whether you’re in a scary basement or a rented studio. You might have forty bucks or you might have four thousand. The beauty of screen printing is that you can make it work under almost any circumstances. This book will show you the basics of the entire process as we know it. We will show you everything from the OK low-budget way of doing something to the professional methods practiced today. You can explore the options and decide which path to take." — Nick Paparone and Jamie Dillon
Check Out This Excerpt From Print Liberation:
Screen Printing Explained
Screen printing is a very direct method of printing in which the printer pushes the ink through a mesh screen directly onto the substrate, or surface receiving the image. The mesh fabric stretched on a frame acts as a carrier for the image to be printed, holding the image as a stencil. Only one color can be printed at a time. To print a design with multiple colors, multiple screens must be made—one for each color of the design—and printed in registration with each other. Registration is the means for getting multiple colors to match up when they are printed. Since it is such a direct printing method, screen printing gives you control over every part of the process, and with some experience you can achieve all kinds of wonderful effects.
To make prints at your studio or home you’ll need to gather some supplies that might not be familiar to you. Like a drunken man needs his wine, so you’ll need the basic things outlined in this chapter to begin your days as a screen printer. While you can get started on the cheap, these things do cost money. So you might want to get a job if you don’t already have one.
Screen printing can’t happen without a screen. Most basically, the screen is a piece of mesh tightly stretched over a wooden or metal frame. The mesh is made of holes through which ink can freely pass. To create a screen print, some areas of the mesh are blocked so ink cannot pass through. In other areas, the mesh is left open to create the image. Ink passes through the unblocked areas of the screen, leaving the printed design on the material below the screen. Screens and screen-making materials can be purchased at most craft or art stores. You’ll probably need to go to a hardware store to buy materials for making your own screen from scratch. See page 46 for instructions on making your own screen.
Mesh is the "silk" of the silkscreen. Think of it as the screen on your screen door. It is sold by the yard or by the roll. Mesh comes in different qualities, although nearly all is made of nylon. The fineness of the weave of the mesh determines the resolution of your print. The lower the number of threads per inch (or centimeter), the fewer holes there are, and the more jagged the edge of your printed area will be. The holes are like pixels in a digital image. All mesh has numbers and words printed on the very edge of the fabric. This information tells you the grade or quality of the mesh. The number is an approximate count of the number of holes per inch (or centimeter). The higher the number, the finer the mesh. A fine thread-count mesh such as 200 holes per inch (or centimeter) would be used for printing on paper, whereas a thread count such as 100 holes per inch (or centimeter) could be used to print a T-shirt. Mesh also comes in different colors. These colors affect the way light diffracts, or spreads, when the screen is being exposed to burn an image. Mesh comes in yellow, orange and white. Plain white mesh should do you right, until you begin to undertake finer-quality printing, at which point you will want to experiment with fancier screen mesh. For example, orange diffuses light the least, so it is used to print very fine, precise images.
Mesh is stretched on frames made of aluminum or wood. Aluminum frames are very light and never warp. Wooden frames are nice and heavy and don’t move around if you are printing without the frame clamped into hinges. If you are making your own wooden screen, keep in mind that the lighter the wood, the more likely it is to warp. Canvas stretcher bars are a cheap material to use, but they are likely to crap out after a few washouts. Having really stable joints at the corners is important. You’ll know it’s stable if the screen feels like one piece of wood, instead of four bars of wood with wonky joints. The corners shouldn’t move, or become a rhombus, or teeter-totter if the frame is fl at on the table. Premade wooden screens are a good bet for the at-home screen printer because they are stretched very taut and are made of solid, kiln-dried wood.
The screen should be larger than the design to be printed to allow room on all sides for ink to sit when it is not being pulled by the squeegee. There should be at least 6" (15cm) on all sides inside the frame where there is no image on the screen. This area is called "well space," where your well of ink can sit while you’re printing. Without this space, you’re going to be fighting with the ink the whole time, and you want the ink to be your friend.
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